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Mulege, a small town on the Baja side of the Sea of Cortez, is
one of our favorite places to visit. The town itself is
approximately 1½ miles up the Rio Santa Rosalia, but the river
is not navigable for sailboats. Smaller powerboats, dinghies
and pongas (small wooden boats powered by outboard motors -
generally used by local fishermen) are much more practical
here. The med style dock located at the mouth of the river,
holds about 6 boats, and there are generally 2 to 3 moored
there full time. If you draft 5 feet or less, you should be
able to tie-up there. Be careful to watch out for the shoal
area at the middle of the entrance to the river, particularly
at low tides. The Capitania de Puerto is a good-humored
"abuelo" who lives at the lighthouse atop Punta El Sombrerito
with his family. The water here is potable, and considered by
many to be the sweetest on the Baja. The Capitania can sell
you both diesel and gas. He speaks some English, but be
prepared to speak some Spanish. There is also good anchorage
on northern side of the entrance to Rio Santa Rosalia, but the
seas tend to be choppy, and there is no protection from the
winds.
If you are going to dinghy into town, it is not possible to go
all the way upriver. It becomes more and more shallow as you
get closer to the bridge, which doubles as a dam. If you do
choose to dinghy in, stay to the far left, or south side of the
river, as it appears to be dredged for the homes and trailer
parks lining that side of the river. The depth of the river
varies greatly in the center. There are rocks and sticks
either barely jutting out of the water, or just below the
surface, which is quite muddy. You will have to find a safe
place to leave the dinghy unattended on either the north or
south side of the river, and much of the south side is
privately owned. It is safe, however to leave a dinghy at the
beach by the lighthouse and walk the mile or so into town. It
is very easy to get a taxi ride back to the lighthouse, which
is on the North side of the river, but there is no way to call
a cab from there in order to get into town. Mulege has several
hotels, motels, grocery stores, shops, places to buy bottled
water, snorkel and dive equipment, and anything else you might
need. There is also an abundance of restaurants, where we
found portions large and prices small. Despite all of these
conveniences, there are no banks or ATM's. The closest can be
found in Santa Rosalia, about 38 miles (via roads) north.
Mulege is also the primary source of supplies if you are
visiting Bahia Concepcion, which is about 12 miles (also by
roads) south.
While most towns on the Baja side of the Sea have a desert
environment, Mulege is a mix of desert and semi tropical
jungle. The lush green here is the product of the Santa
Rosalia river, one of the few fresh water rivers on the Baja.
On the western side of the river, divided by a roadbridge, is
the Mulege Lagoon, which closely resembles a jungle lagoon..
Mulege is also famous for having had the most humane prison in
Mexico. Inmates were permitted to leave during the day to work
and visit their families. The prison was closed in the 1960's,
but is still standing and open to the public today. The
Mission Santa Rosalia de Mulege was founded in 1705 by Father
Juan Basulda, a Jesuit priest. It, too, is still standing, and
open to visitors. Due to its unique environment, its warm,
friendly atmosphere, as well as its rich culture, many consider
Mulege to be a paradise in the Baja desert.
| GPS Waypoints |
| Mulege/Rio Santa Rosalia entrance |
N 26°53.845' |
W 111°58.063' |
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